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Thank you!

My pleasure!

Hi, Jeff. Over the years, I’ve experimented with different methods, mainly involving starting them in a trench OR using the British method of making a deep hole with a dibber tool and dropping a seedling in each hole but not filling it in (I let each hole slowly fill in by themselves). Then, once each leek had grown a bit, I started filling in the hole around them, which prevented light from hitting the stems. I hope this makes sense!

Hoping for the best!

No. I think it would turn to mush.

Oh my! Enough is enough, right? I hope things settle down for you soon.

Thank you!

I'm so sorry to hear that. If it's pretty bad, I would go ahead and pull them up. Be sure to dispose of them, rather than putting them in your compost pile.

Oh, that is so frustrating. I really feel for you. We don't have them here (yet) but they are in parts of Washington.

Hi there. I'm glad you're enjoying my videos. I bought it from Lee Valley Tools (leevalley.com) many years ago. I'm not sure if they still sell them.

Hello, Sally! It's so nice to meet you. Thank you for your very kind comments. I'm delighted that you're enjoying my videos.

Hi, Dolly. I grew fava beans in the bed in the photo and kale in the bed where the root crops are now planted. My rationale for the first bed was that, as a legume, fava beans fix nitrogen so that would be beneficial for the lettuce, spinach, and pak choi. The kale had bolted to seed so I had pulled them a couple of weeks prior to planting the root crops. It was an empty bed, just asking to be replanted!

Hi, Joyce. As long as I'm careful to keep the soil lightly moist, they tend to germinate OK. I think soaking the seeds is a great idea. I also wanted to mention that if the soil temperature is too warm, that can impact germination as well. They geminate best in soil that's within the range of 40-70 degree F. My friend Joe Lamp'l soaks his spinach seeds in water for about 24 hours, then lets them dry on a paper towel for 1-2 days, then he puts the seeds into an airtight container for a few days before finally planting them. I haven't tried this but probably should experiment with it!

@@SusansInTheGarden I did do Joe Lamp’ls procedure last fall and had pretty good luck with them.

​@@joycearthur5244hi 👋

Welcome, Patricia! Thanks so much for subscribing.

Hi, Joyce. I just add the bonemeal while doing the soil prep.

I grow it, not freeze, but I will try it this year.

Yum!

Darn. Do you grow them in the same location every year? If so, the maggots can overwinter in the soil and continue the problem year after year. It's important to plant them in different areas of your garden, if you've got the room. Don't add manure to the soil because that attracts both the adult fly and the maggots. You can also try covering their bed with floating row cover as soon as you plant the seeds. Turnips don't need to be pollinated so you can grow them under the cover for the whole season. I hope these ideas help!

Hi there. Well, the weather is so changeable, it's hard to know for sure when the first frost will hit. But it's usually around the end of September, just like for you. Many of the crops I mentioned in my "Plant a Fall Garden" video (ruclips.net/video/bhkoeX0oosU/видео.html) are quite cold-tolerant so you can probably plant some of them. I provide lots of suggestions plus the days to maturity information.

My pleasure, Nanetta!

So do I!

It's delicious!

Hi there. I just loosely fold over the top of the bag, rather than sealing it tightly. This works so well!

Thank you...will try it​@@SusansInTheGarden

Hi, Diane. When I checked ours yesterday, they had stopped vining and were holding themselves more upright, so maybe they'll start acting more normally!

I have not had luck overwintering ivy geraniums with this particular method. However, you can take cuttings, which root very quickly, and grow them in pots through the winter months if you'd like. Put them in an idea that is relatively light but not right in the sun.

Thanks so much on all counts!

Thank you! Have fun planting your fall garden.

Hi, Lindy. I will remove the insect netting once we start getting some frosts this fall, so I would say when the highs get down to 45-50 degrees F. or thereabouts. It also would be a good idea to keep an eye out for cabbage moths just to see if they're still active when the temps start dropping. Ordinarily, I would plant the fall crops in our little hoop house, in which case I wouldn't need the insect covers. But Bill's growing peppers in it and they won't be fully harvested for at least a month. I didn't want to wait that long to start growing the fall stuff.

Wow, that is odd, although like you said, at least they germinated!

Hi, Nancie. It took a while for us to start seeing bumblebees but now there are a ton of them. We had a late cold snap during the winter and the theory is that it killed off a lot of overwintering insects. If you can grow bee balm (Monarda) there, that is a bumblebee magnet! I'm so glad you enjoyed the short video.

Hi, Joyce. It's truly been a tough year, no matter where folks live. I sure hope next year will be better!

Hi, Linda. I have cut back on doing presentations. Sorry about that! But nice to meet you.

My pleasure!

So do I!

Hi, Lorraine. I don't know of any reliable organic herbicide, to be honest. You could try covering the weedy areas with sheets of newspaper or something, to block the light from them. But I'm just a hand-puller of weeds. Any time I see some in our garden, I immediately yank them out! Try to get the roots so they can't spread. Good luck!

I'm glad some things are showing signs of life! I would leave the carrots alone and see how they do closer to fall. You might also consider planting a fall garden. Here's my recent video on it (ruclips.net/video/bhkoeX0oosU/видео.html) just in case you missed it. And I'll be shooting a video of what I'm planting this coming week.

I'm so glad you enjoyed it. Hope you've been having a great day as well.

Hi, Mary. Hmm, it's hard to know for sure what's going on. First of all, most winter squash are pretty dark while they're still developing, so it could be that. When you said "packages," were you referring to packages of seeds or trays of young seedlings? The acorn squash, with all of those colors, might have been seeds from hybrids, which don't come true to their parent plant. But no matter what, the way to tell when winter squash and pumpkins are ripe is to do the thumbnail test. Here's a link to one of my videos where I demonstrate it: ruclips.net/video/QHsxJyaePcc/видео.html. Take care.

Hi, Dave. It's nice to meet you. I'm glad the article and video helped. I'm hopeful next year's garden will be more "normal!"

Hi there. I'm sure sorry to hear that because I know how frustrating that can be. Both early and late blight are fungal diseases. I have a few strategies you can use starting next year: 1. It's a good idea to rotate where you are growing your nightshade family crops (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, potatoes) because each of these crops are susceptible to blight. I'd recommend a 3-year rotation (i.e., don't plant any of those above crops in the same place for 3 years): it takes a bit of planning but will the spores will be in the soil so you don't want to expose your plants to them every year. You might even want to skip a year or two of growing those crops to break the cycle. If you have a really small garden, you could alternate growing your nightshade crops in containers. 2. Look for blight-resistant tomato varieties. 3. Always stake your plants so the foliage doesn't touch the soil. That way, they won't be in contact with the spores in the soil. 4. In addition, always prune off the lowest branches so they won't touch the soil. 5. Cover the soil surface with a mulch for the same reason. We use grass clippings because we don't use herbicides such as Weed 'n Feed on our lawn. 6. It's a good idea not to use overhead watering to reduce disease spread. 7. Always clean up and dispose of your plant debris, rather than composting it. 8. Apply a biofungicide or copper fungicide as a preventive measure, BEFORE you see any evidence of blight. I hope these suggestions will help!

Thank you!

Hi there. Yes, we use drip tape for most of our raised beds, although we also use 1/4" drip tubing on our 4 wider beds. Bill thinks that 1/4" drip tubing is a lot easier to work with and more versatile than the drip tape. So if we had to do it all over again, we would probably just use drip tubing. While it's tricky commenting on your set-up without seeing exactly what you have, I have a few suggestions. First of all, if you're running long lengths of drip tubing, that could explain why they aren't effectively watering all of the plants in your raised beds. Drip tubing is only efficient in 16' or shorter lengths. We set up a manifold for each of our raised beds, so our drip tubing lines are 8' long each. The nice thing about using a manifold with 1/4" drip tubing is that you can add additional emitter lines to a particular bed to meet water needs (for example, we add extra drip tubing for growing corn). We move the manifolds around the garden each year to match the crops in each bed. Also, we have a few Vari misters (from Dripworks) that we run off the manifold to do a bit of surface watering for growing lettuce and also in areas that seem dry. We do have a pressure-reducer in the sprinkler valve box where our drip system's water lines originate. You've probably seen the drip irrigation video that I shot earlier this year, but you might want to watch it again to see our specific set-up. Here's a link to it: ruclips.net/video/Jj9fGl-IMOU/видео.html. I also heartily recommend dripworks.com. That's where we've bought the majority of our supplies and their website is really helpful.